ultimate concrete mixer guide

Ultimate guide to concrete mixing attachments for skid steer loaders

Concrete mixer attachments for skid steer loaders transform these versatile machines into on-site batch plants, allowing operators to mix and deliver concrete right where it’s needed. This guide provides a comprehensive look at the three major types of skid steer mixer attachments – auger-style mixers, drum-style mixers, and side-discharge mixing buckets – and explains their compatibility, design, operation, safety, maintenance, performance, and ideal use cases. Whether you are an equipment operator, dealer, or technical trainer, this manual offers structured insights and practical instructions for each mixer type, helping you choose and use the right attachment for the job.

Drum-Style Concrete Mixer Attachments

Compatibility & Mounting Systems

Drum-style mixer attachments are designed to fit on virtually any standard skid steer or compact track loader using the universal SSL (skid steer loader) mounting plate. They typically come with a fixed frame that attaches to the quick-tach just like a bucket. Most drum mixers do not require any electrical connection (unless optional features are added), so compatibility is largely about hydraulic flow and the physical mount. These attachments are generally self-contained units – the drum, motor, and gearbox are all mounted on a framework that pins to the skid steer mount. They weigh a few hundred pounds empty (for example, ~440 lbs operating weight for Bobcat’s 6.9 cu. ft. mixer), so most medium and large skid steers can handle them easily, even when loaded with concrete.

Hydraulic specifications: drum mixers use a hydraulic motor to rotate the drum, often via a chain or direct gearbox drive. They are usually designed to run on standard-flow hydraulics. A typical requirement might be 8–25 GPM flow and ~3000 PSI pressure. For instance, one professional-series mixer requires 8–30 GPM, covering a wide range from low to high flow, and includes a flow control valve to adjust drum speed. Bobcat’s own mixer runs at ~20 RPM drum speed at 11 GPM, indicating that even relatively low flow can operate it effectively. High-flow is generally not necessary; in fact, running a drum mixer too fast could cause excessive agitation or motor stress, so many units either include a restrictor or advise an optimal flow (somewhere around 10–15 GPM for best results). Always check if the mixer requires a case drain line – many drum mixers do not need a case drain because their hydraulic motors are low-speed, high-torque types, but some larger models or continuous-use cases might recommend one. For example, the Titan (Palletforks) mixer specifies a case drain is required when used on high-flow systems. Ensure your skid steer has the appropriate auxiliary ports and that you connect any extra drain line back to tank if required.

Mounting is straightforward: slide the attachment’s plate into your skid steer’s hitch and lock the levers. Some drum mixers have additional stabilizer legs or stands. Many come with a parking stand so that when you detach it, the mixer can sit upright on the ground. Always use these stands when storing the mixer to avoid it tipping over. If your mixer has an adjustable discharge chute or side door, there may be a small manual lever or an auxiliary cylinder – check the connections. However, most drum-style units simply rely on tilting the entire attachment to dump, rather than a separate chute. In summary, drum mixers are plug-and-play with most skid steers: if your loader’s lifting capacity and hydraulic output meet the mixer’s specs (which most modern machines do), and you have a standard quick-attach, you’re good to go. They are compatible with all major skid steer brands, and even tractors or backhoe loaders if equipped with the universal quick-attach plate (some users run them on tractor loaders with SSL adapters). Just verify that the loader can handle the loaded weight – e.g. a mixer with 6 cu. ft. of concrete (about 6 * 150 lb = 900 lb of concrete plus ~440 lb attachment) totals ~1340 lb, which is within the lift capacity of most skid steers (even smaller models like a Bobcat S450 can lift ~1300+ lb safely). Always consult the attachment’s manual for any machine-specific guidance (for instance, Bobcat provides a list of compatible models for their mixer and all S/T series loaders are approved

Key Components & Mechanical Design

Drum-style mixers closely resemble the small portable concrete mixers one might see on a jobsite, but built to mount on a skid steer. The primary components include:

• Mixing Drum: A steel drum (tub) that rotates to mix the concrete. The drum typically has a circular opening at the front for loading and dumping, often about 18–20 inches in diameter. Inside the drum are fixed mixing blades or paddles welded to the interior. These paddles help lift and drop the aggregate and cement as the drum turns, ensuring a thorough mix. Drums are usually made of thick steel for durability (e.g. 3/16″ or 1/4″ steel) and are shaped like a bell or cone, narrower at the mouth and wider at the back, to promote mixing circulation. The Spartan mixer, for example, has an all-welded steel drum with internal paddles for uniform mixing  Drum capacity is measured in cubic feet: common models have total drum volumes around 9 cu. ft., with a usable mixing capacity of ~5–6 cu. ft.. That means roughly one 80-lb bag is about 0.6 cu. ft., so you can mix ~8–10 bags in a full batch. The drum is typically set at a fixed angle relative to the mounting frame, and the entire drum/frame is tilted by the loader for dumping.
• Drive System: The drum is turned by a hydraulic motor, usually mounted on the side or back of the attachment. Many designs use a hydraulic motor coupled to a to spin the drum, meaning the motor turns a sprocket that drives a chain around the drum’s rim or a gear. Others might use a direct-drive hydraulic gearbox. The drive often includes an adjustable flow control or valve to set the rotation speed; Spartan’s mixer has an adjustable drum speed control valve included. A typical gear ratio might be around 3:1, giving adequate torque to turn the heavy mix (Spartan lists a 3.18:1 gearbox ratio). The motor is bi-directional (allowing the drum to rotate in either direction – some operators like to reverse direction periodically to help mix or to discharge). The drive system is designed to be maintenance-friendly: e.g., greasable bronze bearings support the drum, and the chain is enclosed for protection or easily accessible for tensioning. The hydraulic motor will have the usual pressure and return hose connections, plus possibly a case drain port if it’s a low-speed high-torque motor type.
• Frame & Mounting Plate: A rigid frame holds the drum and drive. This frame includes the universal mounting plate that locks into the skid steer. It also often has integrated support legs or a stand for when the unit is not attached. The frame on some mixers may allow a small degree of tipping via a pivot (in simpler terms, some mixers might have a manual dump handle – though most rely on the skid steer’s tilt to dump). Many frames incorporate a locking mechanism to keep the drum from spinning or tipping during transport (for example, a latch to hold the drum upright when driving over rough ground).
• Controls and Accessories: Drum mixers are simple – the primary control is the skid steer’s hydraulic flow to start/stop rotation. However, some mixers (like Bobcat’s) optionally come with a Remote Attachment Control (RAC) kit. This is essentially a wired remote that allows the operator to start/stop the loader and operate the mixer from outside the cab. The rationale is that an operator might want to stand beside the attachment to load bags of cement and control the drum at the same time. The RAC kit eliminates the need for a second person in the cab. On the attachment itself, you might find a control box or solenoid if such a feature is present (the Bobcat image shows a control box on the side, presumably for RAC). If not using remote start, one might chock the wheels and use the normal controls from inside the cab or start the loader, lock auxiliary on, then exit carefully (though that is not generally recommended unless using proper remote control for safety). Other small features can include a drum gauge (some mixers have a visible fill level or a pointer to show drum angle) and safety decals/guards around moving parts.
• Dumping Mechanism: Unlike side-discharge buckets, drum mixers usually do not have a separate chute or gate. The entire drum is open at the front. To dump, the operator tilts the loader’s quick-attach plate forward, causing the drum opening to face downward. Some mixers have a slight funnel shape at the drum mouth to help direct the pour. There may also be a manual lock to hold the drum in the dumping position or to stop it from over-rotating when emptying. It’s worth noting that because the drum is fixed to the frame, as you tilt the frame, the drum tilts too but continues spinning on its axis if you keep it running. Often, operators will run the drum in reverse while dumping to help auger the concrete out (the internal paddles will push material out when reversed). Internal paddles also ensure “clean dumping” by not leaving a lot of residue inside  – the reversible nature of the drum means you can spin it one way to mix and the opposite to help discharge.

In summary, the mechanical design of drum-style mixers is centered on simplicity and robustness: a rotating steel drum with mixing blades, turned by a hydraulic motor+chain or gearbox, all mounted on a stable frame. Fewer fancy features than a side-discharge bucket, but very effective for mixing and dumping moderate volumes of concrete quickly. The all-steel construction and greasable bearings are built for longevity, and the enclosed drive protects from grit. A parking stand and any included control boxes round out the design features. There are also mini-skid-steer versions that are smaller, but the concept remains the same.

Operating Instructions (Mixing, Pouring & Dumping)

Operating a drum-style skid steer mixer involves loading the mixer, mixing the concrete, transporting if needed, and dumping it out, using the skid steer’s movement to aid in these steps. Below is a general guide:

1. Preparation & Setup: Park the skid steer on level ground and attach the drum mixer securely. Engage the quick-attach locks and connect the hydraulic hoses (plus case drain if applicable). Verify the drum is empty and any drum lock (if present) is disengaged so the drum can rotate. If your mixer has a flow control valve, set it initially to a middle position (you can adjust speed later). For first use, also check the gearbox oil level (some mixers require filling the gearbox before operation – e.g., ensure it is filled to the side plug with the recommended oil). Make sure the support stands are flipped up out of the way.
2. Loading the Mixer: Lower the mixer drum close to the ground at a comfortable height for loading. Many operators load materials manually: shovel sand/gravel into the drum and add cement (typically from bags). The drum opening (about 20″ wide) can accommodate bagged mix being dumped in, but it might require a bit of aiming – you can use the top edge of the drum to rip open bags if it has a serrated edge, or pre-cut bags. If you have a small loader bucket or other means, you could also pre-mix aggregate and cement in a bucket and dump it into the drum. Add water either before or after adding dry materials – there are different preferences. A common technique is to pour some water in first (a few gallons), then add dry mix. Another method is to add dry ingredients then use a hose to add water while mixing. It’s critical not to exceed the mixer’s stated capacity (e.g. ~6 cu. ft.) – mixing too much will cause inefficient blending or spillage. As a reference, for a 6.9 ft³ drum, about 1/4 yard of concrete (which is ~6.75 ft³) is the max, which might correspond to roughly 10–12 bags of 80-lb premix plus water. If in doubt, start with a smaller batch. Important: Ensure no one’s hands or tools are inside the drum while loading if there’s any chance of accidental drum movement. And always wear a dust mask and gloves – pouring cement can create a lot of dust.
3. Mixing Process: Start the skid steer’s engine to the appropriate RPM (usually a fast idle or rated speed for auxiliary operations). Engage the auxiliary hydraulic flow to start the drum rotating. Most mixers will rotate the drum in one direction (let’s say “forward”) to mix. You should see the material tumbling inside; dry spots will blend as the paddles lift and drop the mix. If your attachment has a recommended drum speed (e.g. ~20 RPM), adjust either your throttle or the flow control valve to achieve a moderate speed – too fast can cause splashing or not actually mix (material might stick to the sides due to centrifugal force), and too slow will prolong mixing. Typically, you’ll mix for a few minutes (~3–5 minutes) until the concrete reaches uniform consistency. During mixing, you can adjust water: if the mix looks very dry (clumps not settling), add water in small increments and let it blend. Conversely, if it’s too soupy, you might add another bag of mix or some gravel. Some drum mixers allow reversing: you could periodically reverse the drum for a few turns to ensure nothing is stuck (though generally continuous forward mixing is fine). Stay in the cab while mixing unless you have a remote control – it’s safer to control from there. If you do have a remote and are outside adding materials, ensure the remote is used per manufacturer instructions (Bobcat’s RAC allows starting/stopping the loader without entering the cab). Always keep body parts clear of the drum opening when the drum is turning.
4. Transport (if needed): Once the concrete is mixed, you can drive to the pour site. If the mixing was done right where you need to pour (e.g., next to a form or hole), you might not need to move far – otherwise, carry the load smoothly. Tilt the drum back slightly (by curling the attachment upward) so that the concrete doesn’t spill out while driving. One advantage of drum mixers is they are fairly compact, so maneuvering into tight spots is easier than with larger bucket attachments. If your path is bumpy, you may pause and give the mix a quick turn of the drum to keep it fresh. Typically, you’d leave the drum turning slowly during transit to prevent the mix from settling – just a slow rotation is enough if the distance is short. Check overhead and side clearances, as you would with any loaded attachment.
5. Positioning for Pour: At the pour location (e.g. at the start of a sidewalk form, or over a post hole), position the skid steer such that when you dump the concrete, it will land accurately. You might approach head-on or from the side depending on access. Tilt the mixer forward just a bit to aim it, but don’t dump yet. If working with a helper who will spread or guide concrete, coordinate with them and make sure they are standing clear to the side, not in front of the drum’s mouth.
6. Dumping Concrete: To discharge, you will use the skid steer’s boom and tilt functions. Raise the loader arms a little (to get height if needed) and then slowly roll the attachment forward (down) as if emptying a bucket. As the drum tilts forward, the concrete will begin to slide out of the opening. You can continue running the drum’s hydraulic motor while dumping – in fact, reversing the drum rotation at this point can help push concrete out (the paddles act like an auger, feeding material to the mouth). For example, if you mixed in clockwise direction, try running counter-clockwise to discharge. Be prepared for the weight shift when the concrete comes out; adjust the boom if necessary to maintain controlled flow. Most or all of the batch will pour out under gravity once the drum is sufficiently tilted. For precise placement, you might dump a little, then tilt back if you need to reposition or wait. The Bobcat mixer allows very controlled dumping suitable for forms like sidewalks or small slabs – you can pour half a drum, move along the form, then pour the rest. If pouring into a hole, just dump until it’s filled to the desired level, then tilt back. Never suddenly jerk the attachment – quick movements could splash concrete or cause the mixer to unbalance. Smoothly discharge the load. If needed, you can stop the drum from rotating and use a shovel to guide remaining concrete out for the last bit.
7. Final Emptying and Cleanup: After dumping, there will usually be some residual concrete coating the inside of the drum and paddles. To prevent that from hardening, immediately do a rinse. You can drive to a wash-out area (or place a tub under the mixer). Add some water into the drum (e.g., use a hose or bucket to get a few gallons in). With the drum tilted upright (opening up) run the drum for a minute so water sloshes and loosens the residual concrete. You might also toss in a couple of softball-sized stones or a bit of gravel to help scour the inside (they act like an abrasive as the drum turns). Then tilt and dump that dirty water out. Repeat if necessary until the water comes out relatively clean. For thorough cleaning, some operators then wipe the inside with a long-handled brush. Also rinse off the outside of the attachment, removing any splatter on the frame, hydraulic motor, or quick-attach plate. Do not direct high-pressure water at the bearings or motor seals (a gentle rinse is fine). Once clean, spin the drum briefly to sling off excess water, then you can detach the mixer or set it aside to dry. Don’t leave wet concrete sitting in the drum for any extended time – even a half hour delay can start to set and be very difficult to remove later.

Operating notes: Many drum mixers have a recommended maximum run time for continuous operation to prevent hydraulic overheating – e.g. mix for 5-10 minutes, then allow a cool-down if doing back-to-back batches. In practice, since one batch mixing is a few minutes, it’s not usually an issue. Keep an eye on your skid steer’s hydraulic temperature gauge if doing many consecutive mixes on a hot day. If the mixer’s motor ever stalls (e.g. you overloaded the drum and it won’t turn), immediately release the hydraulic flow to avoid damage. You might need to shovel out some material or add water to lighten the load, then attempt mixing again. It’s better to do multiple smaller batches than overload it. Additionally, when mixing, you can sometimes hear if the concrete is “wet” or “dry” by the sound (a sloshing vs. a gravelly tumbling) – pay attention and adjust as needed. By following these steps, a drum-style mixer attachment allows a single operator to mix, transport, and pour concrete quickly for a variety of smaller projects, eliminating the need for a separate mixer or endless wheelbarrow trips

Safety Precautions during Use & Maintenance

Safety for drum-style mixers is similar in many ways to auger mixers, with a few specific differences due to the rotating drum and chain drive. Key safety considerations include:

• Staying Clear of the Drum: Never reach into or place any object into the drum while it is rotating. The mixing paddles inside can grab tools or fingers easily. If you need to dislodge something inside, stop hydraulic flow and shut off the machine before attempting to reach in. Lock out the controls or remove the key if you or anyone else will be working around the opening. Remember that the drum could still move a bit after hydraulics are off due to residual momentum, so ensure it’s fully stopped.
• Loading Safety: When loading cement or aggregates into the drum, be cautious of the drum’s edges – they can be sharp or have pinch points where the drum meets the frame. Keep hands clear of those edges. If pouring from bags, lift properly (bags are ~80 lbs) to avoid back strain, and be aware of dust – wear a dust mask and goggles to prevent inhalation of cement dust. It’s wise to load from the side of the drum rather than directly in front, so that if the skid steer were accidentally moved or the drum rolled, you aren’t in its path. Also, do not stand between the loader’s front and another object while loading; stay in a safe zone in case the machine creeps forward.
• Machine Stability: A full drum of concrete is a significant weight. Keep the drum close to the ground when traveling to maintain a low center of gravity. Avoid driving on slopes or uneven terrain with a full load; if you must, go slow and keep the heavy side of the machine uphill. Sudden stops or turns can cause liquid concrete to shift, affecting balance – operate smoothly. If your skid steer has oscillating axles (some older ones or wheeled loaders), be extra mindful of slosh. In general, do not exceed the skid steer’s rated operating capacity. For instance, if your machine’s ROC is 1300 lbs, and the mixer plus concrete weighs ~1300 lbs combined, that’s right at the limit – be very cautious and avoid fast movements.
• Hydraulic Safety: As always, check that all hoses are in good shape and fully connected. A drum mixer’s hydraulic motor can create back-pressure, so if a case drain line is required by the manufacturer, ensure it’s hooked up before running the mixer to prevent motor seal failures. Before connecting or disconnecting the attachment, relieve pressure and shut off the engine. Hydraulic fluid injection injuries are extremely dangerous, so handle couplers with care (wear eye protection and gloves).
• Rotating Parts & Guards: The drive system (chain, sprockets, or gearbox) on drum mixers should have protective guards. Do not remove these guards during operation. If you need to inspect or adjust the chain, do so only with the engine off and drum secured from moving. Keep loose clothing, long hair, or jewelry away from the drum opening and drive components; a snag can pull you in. The drum’s rotation might not appear fast, but it has a lot of torque. Children or bystanders should never be allowed near an operating mixer – flying debris or sudden movements can occur. Some mixers produce noise when mixing, so consider hearing protection if you are running it for extended periods.
• Pouring Safety: When dumping concrete, be aware of the area you are filling. If filling post holes, ensure nobody is at the hole securing a post when you dump – signal them to step away until after the pour. Concrete can be heavy and if it lands on someone’s foot or hand, it can injure. Also, when you fully tilt the mixer to dump, the drum may suddenly swing to its stop and the loader’s center of gravity shifts forward – ensure the loader is on stable, level ground to avoid any tip-over. It’s good practice to keep the seatbelt on and roll cage (ROPS) in place while dumping, as with any load. If you are dumping into a high place (like over a wall for a small pour), be cautious of the drum’s edges hitting the structure – you might need a spotter.
• Remote Operation Caution: If using a remote attachment control (RAC) to operate the mixer from outside the cab, follow the manufacturer’s instructions strictly. Usually, it involves standing at a safe distance and having the ability to stop the machine quickly. Never stand in front of or too close to the attachment even if you have remote control – maintain a few feet distance and stand to the side. The remote is a convenience, not a license to be in harm’s way.
• Maintenance Safety: Before performing maintenance (greasing bearings, tensioning chain, etc.), ensure the drum is empty and cannot move. Support the drum with a block or use the parking stand. Disconnect the hydraulic quick-couplers to ensure the motor can’t engage. When greasing or oiling, wipe off excess that could contaminate concrete later. If you have to replace the chain or motor, follow lockout/tagout procedures (unplug hydraulics, relieve pressure). Always use the correct oil in the gearbox (as specified) and don’t open fill plugs when the drum is hot or running.
• General Practices: As with all equipment, never operate the mixer if you are overtired or under the influence of substances. Be aware of your surroundings; concrete mixers attract attention – keep others out of the work area. Plan your escape route when dumping in case something goes awry (e.g., if a hose were to burst and spray, you know where to move). If something breaks or the mixer malfunctions (like drum stops turning unexpectedly), stop work and troubleshoot with the engine off – do not try to fix problems on the fly with the drum full and running.

By adhering to these safety precautions, drum-style mixers can be used effectively without incident. They are designed to be rugged and safe – for example, their compact size is intentionally meant for confined areas like sidewalks where larger equipment can’t go, so take advantage of that precision and keep safety as the top priority.

Maintenance Schedule and Common Issues

Proper maintenance ensures that a drum mixer will function reliably for many pours. Here are maintenance guidelines and how to handle common issues:

• After Each Use (Daily): Thorough cleaning is the top priority. As mentioned, never let concrete residue harden in the drum. After washing out, leave the drum angled to drain or wipe it dry if possible. Check the drum paddles inside – if any are loose or have concrete stuck, address it now. Also, spray off any concrete that landed on the attachment frame, hydraulic motor, or quick-attach plate. Dried concrete is much harder to remove later and can cause rust or interfere with moving parts. Inspect the hydraulic hoses for any fresh cuts or leaks – the constant drum movement can slowly wear hoses at clamp points, so adjust or replace if you see wear. Verify that the quick-attach pins on the mounting plate stayed tight; concrete vibration can sometimes rattle things, though it’s uncommon if everything is in order.
• Periodic (Every 50 hours or Monthly): Grease the main drum bearing or pivot points. Many drum mixers have greasable bearings supporting the drum or the chain idler. For example, greasable Oilite (bronze) bearings are used on some models – give them a couple pumps of grease at recommended intervals (excessive greasing isn’t required for Oilite, but periodic fresh grease is good). Check the hydraulic motor and gearbox. If there’s a separate gearbox (like a right-angle drive or chain reduction box), check its oil level and top off with gear oil if needed Look at the chain condition: proper tension (not too slack, not overly tight) is important. You typically want about 1/2″–3/4″ of slack in the chain at mid-span. Adjust the tensioner if the chain has stretched. Lubricate the chain with a light oil or chain lube to prevent rust and reduce wear. Examine sprockets for wear (sharp or hooked teeth indicate wear). Also, inspect all bolts and fasteners – the mixer’s vibration can loosen bolts holding the motor or bearing flanges. Use thread locker or proper torque as needed to ensure nothing comes loose during operation.
• Hydraulic System: Even though the mixer itself has few hydraulic components, it’s interacting with your skid steer’s system. Regularly keep the skid steer’s hydraulic fluid clean and filled. If you ever see metal flakes or debris when connecting the hoses, flush the lines – a failing motor or other issue could introduce contaminants. The hydraulic motor on the mixer should be maintenance-free aside from keeping it clean externally. If it has a case drain, check that line for clogs. Listen for any unusual noise from the motor or gearbox – grinding or squealing could indicate a bearing going bad, which you’d want to address before it fails.
• Storage: When the mixer is not in use, apply a light coat of oil on the inside of the drum (some use a form oil or even a spray of diesel as a protective coating) to prevent rust. Store it with the drum tilted to not collect rain (or cover it). Grease any exposed cylinder rods (if any, though drum mixers typically have none) and keep the attachment in a dry place. Before the next use, spin the drum by hand (with machine off) to ensure it moves freely and no obstructions like nests or debris have gotten in.
• Maintenance of Remote Control (if applicable): If you have an RAC kit or similar, inspect the wiring and connectors. Make sure the remote and receiver are functioning and the emergency-stop on the remote (if any) is tested. These are electronic so keep them dry and handle gently.

Common issues and troubleshooting:

• Concrete Hardening in Drum: If you ever accidentally let concrete set in the drum, removal can be very difficult. One method is to chisel it out by hand (with the drum stationary, using a hammer and chisel carefully to not puncture the drum). Some have had success with mild acidic solutions (like diluted muriatic acid) to dissolve the cement – but this must be done with caution and proper PPE, and thoroughly rinsed afterward. Prevention is far better: always clean promptly. Even thin films of cement can gradually build up and reduce capacity or mixing efficiency, so keep on top of it.
• Drum Not Turning: If you engage hydraulics and the drum doesn’t rotate, or rotates weakly: first check the skid steer – is the auxiliary circuit activated and on (silly as it sounds, always verify the basics)? Next, listen if the hydraulic motor is trying (hissing sound) or silent. If silent, there may be a flow issue – a quick-connect coupler might not be fully seated (a common cause for attachments not working). Disconnect and reconnect hoses firmly. Also ensure any selector valves (if your machine has high-flow/standard flow selector) is set correctly. If the motor is receiving flow (you hear it under strain) but drum is not moving, the chain might have come off or broken. Stop immediately and inspect the drive chain through the access panel. A broken chain or sheared key on a sprocket would disconnect the drum from the motor. Replace the chain or key if so. If the chain is intact and motor runs but drum slips, the chain could be loose and slipping on sprockets – tighten it. Another possibility: the internal relief valve in the motor might be opening if the load is too high (e.g. overfilled drum). In that case, lighten the load and try again. If nothing appears wrong externally, the hydraulic motor might have an internal failure (like a broken shaft or stripped spline). That is rare but could happen after very heavy use – you’d need to remove and repair/replace the motor.
• Drum Rotates Slowly or Weakly: This could indicate partial flow – check if your skid steer is in an economy mode limiting flow. Also inspect the case drain line (a clogged or pinched case drain can cause a motor to bog or run slow). Cold hydraulic oil can also reduce performance until it warms up. In some mixers with flow control valves, ensure the valve isn’t nearly closed. Adjust the valve to allow sufficient flow. If the issue persists, it might be a sign of hydraulic motor wear (loss of efficiency) – after years of use the motor may need overhaul. Or the auxiliary circuit relief on the skid steer may be kicking in too early (less likely if other attachments work fine on the machine).
• Excessive Vibration or Noise: If you feel the attachment shaking abnormally during mixing, stop and check. This could be from uneven load (maybe a big rock or clump inside causing imbalance). It could also be from a loose mounting – check the skid steer coupler pins and the attachment frame for cracks. Vibration can also come from worn bearings on the drum shaft – lift the drum and wiggle it to see if there is play. If the bearings or bushings are worn out, you’ll need to replace them to avoid further damage. Chain “slap” can make noise too – if the chain is too loose it may be hitting the guard; tighten it to proper spec.
• Leaking Hydraulic Motor or Hoses: A leak at the motor shaft likely means a bad seal, possibly due to overpressure. You’d have to reseal or replace the motor. Leaky hoses or fittings should be replaced and tightened as standard practice.
• Gearbox Issues: If your mixer has a gearbox (not all do – some are direct chain), listen for grinding. Change the oil in the gearbox according to the service interval (e.g. after first 50 hours, then every 250 hours). If water contamination (oil looks milky) or metal particles are found, service is needed. A noisy gearbox could indicate low oil or damaged gears – address immediately to avoid a total failure.

By following a consistent maintenance schedule – cleaning after each use, lubricating and inspecting regularly, and fixing minor issues before they escalate – a drum-style mixer will remain a dependable attachment. Many users find these mixers relatively low-maintenance: e.g., one model advertises “no rubber paddles to repair and replace” and an all-steel auger (paddle) that delivers long life. In practice, aside from cleaning, the maintenance is largely about keeping the drive system healthy (oil, chain tension, grease) and the hydraulic connections secure. Do that, and your mixer will be ready to roll (literally) whenever you need it.

Performance Characteristics and Ideal Use Cases

Drum-style mixers strike a balance between the small, agile auger mixers and the large, high-capacity side-discharge buckets. They offer moderate capacity and ease of use, making them extremely popular for a variety of mid-sized concrete jobs. Here we’ll discuss their performance in terms of capacity, output, and then outline the use cases where they shine (and where they have limitations).

Mixing Capacity & Output: A typical skid steer drum mixer can handle on the order of 6–9 cubic feet of concrete per batch. To visualize, 27 cubic feet is 1 cubic yard, so these mixers are roughly a quarter yard capacity. In practical terms, that might be about 2–3 mixer-fulls to equal what a large tow-behind mixer or small truck might deliver in one go. For many small jobs, one or two batches from the drum mixer is sufficient. For example, setting 4×4 fence post footings might use ~2 cu ft of concrete each; a single drum load can fill several holes. Paving a few sidewalk squares or a small slab (say 8 ft x 8 ft by 4 inches thick is ~21 cu ft ≈ 3 drum loads) is feasible with a drum mixer doing a few batches in succession. What’s important is that the mixing is continuous and consistent – you can keep mixing new batches while finishing the pour of the previous, if you have additional labor to assist, thereby providing a near continuous supply on site. The output rate depends on how quickly you can load and mix: generally, one batch might take ~5–10 minutes from loading to fully mixed and dumped. So you might achieve around 0.25 yard in 5–10 minutes. Compared to an auger mixer (4 cu ft in maybe 5 minutes), the drum is similar in mixing speed per volume, but holds more per batch. Compared to a side-discharge bucket (which might mix 3/4 yard at once), the drum is smaller – but also easier to fill and manage for one person.

One performance advantage drum mixers claim is better mix quality and less maintenance than manual mixers. The internal paddles and reversing ability ensure a uniform mix without the “dead corners” that some mortar mixers have. Also, many drum mixers avoid using rubber wipers or other parts that wear out – they rely on steel paddles and a tight gap to the drum to mix thoroughly. For instance, the FasTrac 750 (which is more of a side-discharge auger bucket, but similar idea) touts no rubber paddles to replace and a tight tolerance auger/trough for superior mixing. A drum mixer with fixed steel blades similarly has little to replace unless the steel itself wears thin after extensive use.

Hydraulic Performance: Drum mixers use moderate hydraulic flow. As mentioned, ~11 GPM can get ~20 RPM on a Bobcat unit. If you have more flow available (say 20 GPM), you could potentially mix faster (some have higher speed capability), but often you’ll just throttle down since overly vigorous mixing isn’t needed beyond a point. The hydraulic demand is well within the capabilities of most skid steers, meaning you won’t bog down the loader running the mixer unless perhaps you have a very small model with an underpowered auxiliary pump. The fact that many list compatibility with even smaller skid steers (S450, etc.). shows that performance on standard flow is adequate. The key is torque: these attachments are geared to provide high torque to turn heavy, wet concrete. Users generally report that as long as you don’t overfill, the mixers turn without issue and are forgiving (will stall or bypass relief rather than break if overloaded). Some drum mixers can also be used for mixing other materials like mortar, asphalt cold patch, or even livestock feed in a pinch, due to their gentle rotating action – but concrete is the primary intent.

Use Cases – Where Drum Mixers Excel:

• Sidewalks, Driveways, and Small Slabs: Drum mixers are often highlighted for such jobs. If you’re pouring a new sidewalk or repairing sections, the drum mixer allows you to mix just enough concrete for one section at a time and pour it in place. The compact size means you can drive the skid steer right up to the pour area, even in residential yards or inside building frames where space is limited. Finish work like driveways or pads for sheds, hot tubs, AC units, etc., are practical – you avoid the expense of a ready-mix truck for a small volume. The concrete can be mixed and dumped right where you need it, which reduces labor hauling wet concrete in wheelbarrows.
• Fence Posts, Footings, and Small Piers: Like auger mixers, drum mixers are great for fence and post jobs, but they can handle a bit larger footing in one go. For instance, a drum mixer can likely fill a 12-inch diameter footing 3 feet deep (which is ~2 cubic feet) for a deck post with one batch. It shines when you have multiple holes: you can park by a stockpile of materials, mix a batch, dump it into a wheelbarrow or drive to each hole, and repeat. This might not be as slick as the auger drill→mix combo if you have to reposition a lot, but for moderate-scale fencing it’s effective. Also, for building footings that are too small to justify a pump or truck (e.g. a garden gazebo with 4 piers), a drum mixer will get the job done.
• Remote or Hard-to-Reach Sites: Skid steer drum mixers allow you to bring concrete mixing capability to locations a truck can’t access. For example, inside buildings (warehouses or basements) where you can drive a loader but not bring in a mixer truck – you can bring in sacks of mix and water and do the job internally. Also, hillside or backyard projects behind houses where the only access is a skid steer path. Because you can transport the dry ingredients separately, it prevents issues of concrete setting up too soon during transport. Essentially, you have a mobile batch mixer.
• Repair Work: Need to patch a section of concrete floor or slab? A drum mixer can mix small batches of specialty repair concrete or grout on site. For example, if a section of industrial floor needs repouring, and you only require 1/3 yard of high-strength mix, you can do that on demand. The attachment is also useful for continuous repair jobs like filling utility trenches with concrete or flowable fill in stretches – you can move along a trench, pouring as you go.
• Curb and Gutter, or Curb Machine Feeding: Some contractors use these mixers to feed concrete into curb machines for making curbs on-site. The consistent mixing and ability to pour at controlled rates is useful here. The side-discharge buckets are also used for this, but drum mixers can suffice for small curbing tasks if carefully controlled.
• General On-Farm or On-Site Mixing: Beyond concrete, a drum mixer attachment can be an all-purpose mixer. On a farm, you might mix feed, compost, or fertilizer; on landscaping jobs, you could mix soil amendments. Its gentle tumble can blend materials homogeneously. (If doing so, clean thoroughly before switching back to concrete to avoid contamination.)

Limitations / Comparisons: Drum mixers are not as fast for large volumes as side-discharge models. If you need to pour several yards of concrete continuously (like a large slab or many post holes at once), a side-discharge mixer or a concrete delivery would be more efficient. Drum mixers require loading by hand or separate equipment, whereas a side-discharge bucket can often scoop its own materials. However, drum mixers generally make up for that by being easier to load with bagged mixes and being less bulky – they don’t need heavy top grates or hydraulically operated gates, which means fewer things to maintain or go wrong. They also typically do not need auxiliary electrical hookups (unless using the optional remote), whereas some big mixers need 7-pin or 14-pin connectors for solenoids So, drum mixers are simple and convenient for the majority of small concrete jobs (from a few bags up to maybe a couple yards if done in batches). They complement the skid steer’s versatility – you can switch from mixing to other tasks quickly (just drop the mixer and pick up a bucket, for instance).

In summary, the performance of drum-style skid steer mixers is characterized by moderate batch size, reliable mixing quality, and the ability to mix & pour in one attachment. They shine in use cases like residential construction, agricultural builds, and maintenance tasks where you need concrete in moderate amounts in various locations. They effectively replace the need for separate mixers or lots of manual labor, turning your loader into a compact mixer truck for small-scale projects. As Bobcat notes, it lets you “mix, transport and dump concrete much more quickly than a traditional stand-alone mixer and wheelbarrow” and its compact size is perfect for those limited-access jobs. Keep in mind your project scale: for one or two yards total, a drum mixer is a great solution; for five or ten yards in one pour, you’d likely look beyond its capacity. But within its niche, it offers tremendous efficiency and is a go-to attachment for many contractors and rental centers.

Side-Discharge Concrete Mixer Attachments (Mixer Buckets)

Figure: A side-discharge concrete mixing bucket attachment (“Hurricane” mixer). This style has a large hopper with internal auger paddles and multiple discharge options – note the removable grate on top (with bag splitter) and the flexible hose attached to the side chute. Side-discharge mixers let you scoop raw materials, mix concrete in the bucket, then dispense through a chute or pipe for precise placements

Compatibility with Skid Steers & Hydraulic Specs

Side-discharge mixer attachments – often called concrete mixer buckets or auger buckets – are typically the largest and most hydraulically demanding of the mixer types, yet they are designed to fit on all standard skid steer loaders. They attach via the universal skid steer quick-attach plate, just like any bucket. Due to their size and weight, it’s important that the skid steer has sufficient lift capacity and hydraulic power to handle them, especially when full of concrete. Most full-size skid steers (and CTLs) will work; some smaller models might be limited to the smaller bucket sizes. These attachments often come in multiple capacity options (for example, 1/4 yard, 1/2 yard, 3/4 yard models).. Therefore, match the attachment size to your machine – a 3/4 yard (20 cu. ft.) mixer likely needs a 2000+ lb ROC machine at minimum (because 3/4 yard concrete weighs ~3000 lbs, plus attachment ~1000+ lbs).

Hydraulic requirements: Side-discharge mixers use a hydraulic motor to drive an internal mixing auger and sometimes additional hydraulics for discharge gates. They typically operate within standard skid steer hydraulic flow ranges, but often at the upper end. A common spec is around 11–22 GPM flow and ~3000 PSI. For example, the Titan side-discharge mixer recommends 10–30 GPM and up to 2700 PSI – effectively it can run on standard or high-flow, with higher flow yielding faster mixing and discharge (auger speeds maybe 20–60 RPM). Many units list a flow range like “11–22 GPM” as optimal, which covers most skid steers’ standard auxiliary circuits. If you connect to a high-flow machine (30+ GPM), you must ensure the mixer’s motor can handle it or use a flow control to throttle down, otherwise you risk over-speeding the chain/auger drive.

One important hydraulic feature often required is a case drain line. These mixer buckets use powerful low-speed, high-torque motors to turn heavy loads. Such motors (e.g. Geroler/Gerotor style) generate backpressure on the return line, and a case drain allows excess pressure/flow to return to tank, preventing motor seal damage. The Titan mixer explicitly notes a case drain is required, as do many manufacturers for high-flow use. So, ensure your skid steer has a third line (case drain port) available and that you hook it up properly when using these attachments. Running without a needed case drain can blow out the motor seals quickly under heavy load.

Mounting is straightforward (universal plate), but attachment controls might be needed for some features. Unlike drum mixers, many side-discharge models have hydraulically controlled gates or chutes. For instance, the bucket may have a center discharge gate operated by a hydraulic cylinder or solenoid valve. To use that, your skid steer either needs the standard auxiliary control plus an electrical control for the solenoid (usually through a 14-pin or similar connector) or a separate diverter.Land Honors  Hurricane offers an 8” center chute controlled by a 12V solenoid, which plugs int. They provide options for different machine connector types. If your machine lacks an electronic connector, manufacturers often supply a cab-mounted switch kit that you can install to toggle the chute. Similarly, some have an optional side chute flow control – e.g., a manual lever to open/close a side or even a secondary hydraulic if it’s powered. Typically, one electrical output can control a diverter to switch hydraulic flow from the auger motor to the gate cylinder if needed. In simpler designs, the side chute is purely manual (lever or slide gate). Always clarify what control outputs are needed and ensure your skid steer is wired accordingly. If not, you may need to get an adapter harness or a standalone electrical kit from the attachment manufacturer.

Physical compatibility: These mixer buckets are usually wider than auger or drum mixers (often around 48–60 inches wide to hold the volume). They’ll fit any skid steer physically, but on a very narrow machine the bucket might protrude a bit on the sides. It’s generally not an issue. The height of the unit is also something to consider – a loaded mixer is tall and might obstruct forward vision somewhat; use caution moving around with it. When connecting, double-check that the locking pins fully engage – the weight of these attachments means you want a secure lock.

In summary, compatibility checklist for side-discharge mixers: adequate lift capacity (choose the size that your machine can lift safely when full), correct hydraulic flow (most standard flows okay; high-flow use should be within the unit’s range or throttled), a case drain line availability, and proper electrical hook-up if the attachment has hydraulic gates. If you meet those, you can hook up the mixer bucket like any other attachment: latch it, connect the three hoses (pressure, return, drain), plug in the control harness (if provided), and you’re ready to operate. These attachments are commonly used on mid to large skid steers on construction sites, but they can also go on telehandlers, wheel loaders, or tractors if the mounting plate and hydraulics are compatible (some have adapter plates). The key is delivering enough hydraulic power – running one on a tiny machine might result in sluggish mixing. Manufacturers like to note that their mixers work with “virtually all skid steers” – just ensure “all” includes yours in terms of flow and carrying ability.

Key Components & Mechanical Design Features

Side-discharge mixer attachments are the most feature-rich concrete mixers for skid steers. They combine the functions of a bucket, a mixer, and a concrete dispenser in one unit. Let’s break down the key components and how they work:

• Hopper/Bucket Body: The main body is a large steel hopper that holds the concrete mix. It looks like a oversized bucket or trough. The bottom is typically curved (like a U-shape) to accommodate an internal auger. The front edge often has a cutting edge made of hardened steel so that the bucket can be used to scoop sand or gravel piles. This means you can drive into a stockpile to load raw materials directly, an advantage over drum mixers which must be hand-loaded. The top of the hopper usually has a removable grate or screen. This grate serves multiple purposes: it prevents large rocks or debris from entering and potentially jamming the auger, it provides a platform to break up cement bags (often with built-in serrated “bag cutters” on the bars), and it acts as a safety guard to keep the operator’s limbs out of the mixing area. Some grates are hinged or bolted so they can be opened for easier cleaning or loading large aggregates. The interior of the hopper is lined with abrasion-resistant steel (like Hardox 400 in the Eterra units) for longevity, because concrete and sand are very abrasive to steel surfaces.
• Mixing Auger & Paddles: Running through the length of the hopper is a heavy-duty auger shaft with mixing paddles or blades attached. This auger is the heart of the mixing system. It usually spans horizontally, running from one side of the bucket to the other. Paddles are welded or bolted onto the auger flight; some designs have spiral flites like an auger bit, others have paddle fins set at intervals.. Because of the auger, these mixers can handle not just concrete but also mortar, grout, and even odd materials – manufacturers list things like livestock feed, asphalt, or sand as mixable. The capacity is significant: some auger buckets can handle up to 1.25″ aggregate, which is essentially regular concrete gravel. The design often includes some clearance between auger and trough –. The auger is powered by a hydraulic motor (discussed next) and may be supported by bearings on the ends.
• Hydraulic Drive System: Mounted usually on one side of the bucket (sometimes the side, sometimes one end) is a hydraulic motor that drives the mixing auger via a chain or direct couple. Many use a chain and sprocket drive to transmit power to the auger shaft, which allows the motor to be placed up high or to the side in a protected location. For instance, Titan’s mixer notes a sealed chain drive system that is reversible. Land Honors Mix & Go similarly uses a sprocket/chain drive inside a sealed housing.. The chain drive typically provides a reduction ratio to increase torque on the auger and reduce speed to the desired mixing rpm. Chains are robust and easy to maintain (and keep the motor out of direct contact with wet concrete). On some models, the motor might attach directly to the auger (through a gearbox) – Danuser’s Mega Mixer, for example, couples an 8” auger directly to a low-speed high-torque motor (likely via a short chain or gearbox internally). The hydraulic motor is a key part: these are high-torque motors designed to handle heavy loads without stalling. They often have high pressure ratings (~3000+ PSI).
• Because of the heavy load, these drives also often incorporate a pressure relief or bypass to prevent damage if the auger jams – so the motor will stall or oil will bypass rather than twist something apart (the operator will hear/see it and can reverse to clear). The drive may also be reversible from the cab (dependent on skid steer’s ability to run aux hydraulics both directions – most can).
• Discharge Chutes and Gates: The hallmark of side-discharge mixers is the ability to control and direct the flow of mixed concrete. They commonly feature two discharge points: one on the side and sometimes one on the center/bottom.
  • The side discharge chute is usually a door on the side wall of the bucket that can be opened, allowing the auger to push concrete out to the side. Some models have left and right side doors (Danuser Mega Mixer has adjustable brackets to dispense left or right and includes multi-link chutes that attach on either side). Often, the chute comes with extension pieces – e.g., 2-foot chute sections you can pin on to reach further or fill higher forms. In the figure image above, you see a gray flexible hose attached – many come with a hose or tube you can clamp on for more directed placement (like into a post hole or through a narrow opening). The side chute is usually manually controlled by a lever that opens a sliding gate. Because the auger is in the bucket, when it spins, it will carry concrete towards the opening and extrude it out. The operator can adjust the flow by how wide the gate is opened and by auger speed.
  • The center (bottom) discharge is often an 8-inch port at the bottom center of the bucket, controlled hydraulically. For instance, many have a trap door at the center that is opened by a hydraulic cylinder (hence needing the electrical solenoid to actuate). When opened, concrete can drop downward or be forced out by auger into a flexible hose attached to that bottom port. This essentially turns the mixer into a concrete pump of sorts, allowing you to place concrete in more inaccessible spots. A typical hose size is 8″ diameter which can be several feet long to reach f. The advantage is you can have a second person hold the hose and literally pour into a form as the skid steer keeps the hopper .
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• Auxiliary Components: Besides the main parts above, these attachments often have helpful extras. Integrated bag splitters on the grate we mentioned – basically sharpened metal bar edges to tear open cement sacks. Dual safety grates that open individually – Danuser’s has two top grates that can open on either side for ease of cleaning or loading from one side. Yardage markers on the bucket – Danuser includes easy-to-read markers (1/4, 1/2, 3/4 yard) on the side so you know how much material is in the bucket, avoiding overfilling. Chute storage brackets on the bucket – places to hang the chute sections when not in use so they’re not lost. . Pin holders to store the chute pins (Danuser). These conveniences improve job efficiency. The side walls may also have inside scrapers or wipers (some designs incorporate rubber or polyurethane edges on the auger or walls to scrape material, but many rely on the auger action alone). The entire mixer bucket is usually built very rugged – thick steel, heavily welded seams – because it’s expected to handle the stress of heavy loads and scooping.
• Low Maintenance Design Elements: Many side-discharge mixers emphasize easy maintenance. For instance, sealed bearings and protected drives reduce upkeep. Hardox or AR steel paddles and liner means it lasts longer mixing abrasive concrete. Some mention maintenance-free aspects: Digga’s bowl says “maintenance free” (likely referring to the bowl itself having no moving parts aside from auger, which is motor-driven). But realistically, one must maintain the chain tension, lube points, etc., as described in maintenance sections above.

In essence, the design of side-discharge mixer attachments is all about productivity and versatility. They take the concept of a mixing bucket and enhance it with features to load materials, mix efficiently, and then place concrete exactly where needed with minimal mess. It’s like having a mini concrete batch plant and concrete placer on the front of your skid steer. Because of their mechanical complexity (auger, gate, multiple outputs), they are the most expensive type, but also the most capable for larger tasks.

Operating Instructions (Scoop, Mix, and Discharge)

Operating a side-discharge mixer attachment involves three main phases: loading (scooping materials), mixing the concrete, and discharging/pouring via the chosen method. Below is a step-by-step guide:

1. Preparation & Pre-Check: Before starting, ensure all connections are made: hydraulic hoses for the auger motor (and case drain attached if required), and the electrical harness for the chute gate if your model has onee. Verify that the top grate is in place and locked (you’ll open it to load bagged cement, but it should be secure during mixing). Make sure the side chute door(s) are closed and latched and the center gate (if present) is closed – you don’t want material accidentally dumping out. If your mixer has selectable dispensing (like a valve to direct flow to center chute’s cylinder), set it to keep all gates closed initially. Be sure the bucket is clean from previous use; remove any old hardened concrete chunks from inside.
2. Loading Materials (Scoop or Manual): One huge advantage of these mixers is the ability to self-load aggregates. Position your skid steer in front of the sand/gravel pile. Lower the mixer bucket and use it to scoop up the sand/gravel just like a regular bucket. Thanks to the cutting edge on the bucket, you can cut into the pile. Load the required amount of aggregate – many operators load perhaps 2/3 of the aggregate first. Then, if you have piles of gravel and sand separately, you might scoop a measured mix (or you might be using premix). Alternatively, if using all-in-one bagged concrete mix, you can just scoop some water first (see next step) and then add the bags. Now, tilt the bucket back to keep material from spilling. If using bagged cement: raise the loader arms a bit so the grate is at a comfortable waist height. Cut open and pour in the cement bags onto the grate (or simply rest the bag on the grate and use the bag splitter bars to tear it as you lift the bag – the mix will fall through into the bucket). It’s often easiest to add the cement powder after some aggregate is already in, to avoid the powder blowing away – you can even have the auger turning slowly while adding to immediately start incorporation (just be mindful of dust). Add the desired number of bags for your batch (and you can always add more aggregate after mixing a bit if it looks too wet). Water: If you have a water source (hose or water tank attachment), pour in the appropriate amount of water. Some attachments have optional water tanks (like FasTrac offers one) – if you have that, you can meter water in as needed. Otherwise, use buckets or a hose with a flow meter. Many operators fill approximately to a known level or follow a recipe (e.g., 15 bags needs ~25 gallons, added gradually). You can always adjust water later, so it’s better to start a little dry.
3. Mixing the Concrete: With materials loaded, close the cab door (to keep dust out) and engage the skid steer’s auxiliary hydraulics to start the mixing auger. Usually, you’ll run at a moderate throttle – not idle, but you don’t need full throttle unless the mix is extremely heavy. The auger will begin to churn the contents. Mix while stationary for best results. You’ll see the dry materials being lifted and folded by the auger. It might initially form a mound; as water distributes, it should start to flow more. If the mix looks very dry (auger struggling, materials not combining), stop or slow the auger and add more water incrementally. If it’s sloshing too easily, add another bag of mix or some more aggregate to thicken it. Run the auger in the forward direction that is intended for mixing (some manuals specify which way for mixing – often clockwise viewed from cab). Because these augers are efficient, within a couple of minutes you should have a homogenous concrete mix. You can occasionally reverse the auger direction briefly – this can help loosen any pockets of material or clean the auger blades. One nice aspect: the bucket has corners and the auger runs the length, so check the corners for any unmixed dry stuff; many designs have special paddle shapes to reach into corners, but if you see unmixed material, you might have to pulse the auger or add a bit more water to get it moving. The mixing process is usually quite fast – manufacturers claim these mixers can blend a full load in minutes “within minutes”. Once it looks uniformly wet and the desired slump, you’re ready to move.

Tip: Keep the top grate on during mixing for safety (and it also helps break up clumps). However, if you need to observe the mix, you can safely peer through the grate from the cab or carefully from the side (not sticking your head over it!). Modern designs with enclosed drives mean you usually don’t have to worry about concrete spurting out, as long as the grate is on – but do avoid running the auger at max speed with a very fluid mix as it could splash through the grate.

4. Transporting to Pour Site: If you aren’t already at the pour location, carefully drive the skid steer to where you need to discharge the concrete. One key here: keep the bucket tilted back enough so that concrete doesn’t leak out of the side chute or over the top. Most side chute doors are fairly watertight when latched, but if you hit a bump and the mix sloshes, it could seep. The heavy load will affect your steering, so drive smoothly and avoid sudden stops. If the site is some distance, you might periodically run the auger slowly to agitate the mix and prevent settling (especially if using a wetter mix that might separate). Because these attachments are heavy, ensure your path is clear of people and obstructions – it’s harder to stop quickly with an extra nearly a ton in front. One advantage: if terrain is rough, you can keep the auger mixing at slow speed and it effectively keeps the concrete moving so it doesn’t clump or freeze up on your way to the pour.
5. Positioning for Discharge: Now decide which discharge method you’ll use: Side chute for dumping into forms/trenches or filling multiple post holes at grade, center chute with hose for precise placing in a specific spot, or front dump (by tilting the bucket forward over an area, which basically turns it into a big pour like a standard bucket – used if you want to dump all at once or can’t use the chute). Often, these mixers are used with the side chute for things like filling a line of fence post holes or laying a curb, because you can drive alongside and continuously discharge. Alternatively, the center hose is great for a single deep hole or footing.
   • For side chute use: Determine which side the chute is on (some let you configure left or right). If it’s on the right side, for example, you’ll want to drive along the left side of your target line so that the chute is over it. Many mixers allow left or right by swapping chute hardware – e.g., Danuser can do both sides; others like Eterra Hurricane have one side chute on a given side (I believe on right side by default, and center bottom as well). So plan your approach: If filling holes, align the skid steer so the chute will be above each hole as you move. If pouring a slab or forms, you might approach from outside the form and have the chute aimed inwards. Ensure the skid steer is on stable, level ground as much as possible to keep the bucket level (or else concrete may lean to one side internally).
   • For center chute (hose) use: Park the skid steer close enough that the hose can reach the pour target without kinking. You might be slightly offset, perhaps facing one side of the hole. Often an assistant will hold the hose end. Make sure the hose is securely attached to the center outlet (usually clamped). Remove any cap or cover from the hose end.
   • For direct front dump: Position as you would with a normal bucket – front edge over the pour area. This might be used for quickly dumping out excess or if you decide to use it like a regular bucket.
6. Discharging Concrete – Side Chute: Let’s cover side chute first, as it’s a primary method. With the mixer in position and skid steer at low idle (you don’t need a lot of speed for discharge usually), engage the auger in the correct direction for discharge. Typically, you’ll reverse the auger’s rotation relative to mixing so that it effectively screws material toward the side door. Now, open the side chute gate. Depending on your model, you either pull a lever to unlatch and lift the gate manually, or trigger a hydraulic solenoid if it had one (most are manual for side). Some gates are gravity drop (you release a catch and the pressure of concrete might push it open). Open it gradually if possible. Concrete will start to flow out of the side opening. As the auger turns, it actively pushes concrete through the chute. If you have a steel chute attachment (like a curved trough) or hose attached, the concrete will follow that path and come out at the end. Direct it into your form or hole. You can control flow by the auger speed and gate opening: for a slow trickle, run engine at idle and/or crack the door slightly; for faster output, open fully and increase throttle. Manufacturers note these can dispense quickly – e.g., up to 3/4 yard in ~30 seconds at full bore, which is quite fast, so be prepared to close the gate or slow auger as needed. If moving between multiple holes, you might close the gate after each is filled (the auger can keep turning with gate closed; the mix will just circulate inside). For filling a continuous trench or curb form, you might keep it open and just continuously drive slowly forward, letting the mix extrude out (almost like laying a windrow of concrete). Ensure that the person (if any) spreading the concrete stays clear of the side of the bucket and out of the path of the machine. If working alone, you can inch forward, stop to let concrete pile, then move again.

Important: Always avoid getting any body parts near the auger or chute opening during operation. Even though the auger is inside, the chute has moving concrete that could injure fingers or hands (and the auger could catch anything protruding). Use tools (like a rod or shovel) only from the outside if you need to poke or guide material – and ideally pause the auger before doing so.

7. Discharging – Center Chute with Hose: Now for the center bottom chute. Ensure the hose is securely fastened and someone is ready to handle it (if needed). Engage the auger in discharge direction (most designs likely use the same auger direction for both side and center discharge – basically pushing toward the openings). Activate the hydraulic gate for the center chute – often a button or switch in your cab controlling a solenoid to a cylinder which opens the trapdoorr. The door will open (some designs open to one side, others hinge) and concrete will begin to flow down into the hose. Because gravity helps here, you might not need to run the auger fast – in fact, you might start auger slow and see if concrete comes. If it’s not coming out quickly, bump up auger speed to force it. The flexible hose will fill and concrete will come out its end; direct it where needed. The process is somewhat akin to using a concrete pump hose, but the flow is driven by the auger. If the auger is reversible, occasionally reversing might help re-prime or clear aggregate if a clog forms (for example, if aggregate bridged at the opening). Keep an eye on pressure – some systems have a pressure relief that will kick in if you run the auger with nowhere for concrete to go (like if hose is blocked). Typically, 1.25″ aggregate passing through an 8″ hose is fine, but ensure no foreign objects or clumps are present. Fill the target area carefully; the person at the hose can signal to stop flow by you closing the gate or stopping auger. One advantage of the hose method is you can reach inside forms, pour into tall column forms, or place concrete under things (like under a raised deck) where the skid steer can’t approach directly. Once done, shut the gate by deactivating the solenoid – this will stop further output and let you transport remaining mix if any.
8. Alternative – Dump Out Front: In some scenarios, you might just dump the whole load out the front (for example, if you mixed a batch and want to empty it quickly onto the ground or a tub). To do this, leave the gates closed and simply use the skid steer’s dump motion: tilt the bucket forward like an ordinary bucket. You may also run the auger to help push material out over the top of the bucket’s front lip (some designs allow front dumping through the top if you’ve removed or opened the grate). Many side-discharge mixers advertise the ability to “pour out the front through the top grate” as a third option. This essentially means if you raise the loader and tip forward, you can just pour the concrete as if it were a big bucket. If you intend to do a full dump, it can be helpful to remove or prop open the grate so the concrete flows freely (with caution – ensure no bystanders and do it only when needed). This method empties the mixer faster if precision is not needed.
9. Closing Up & Moving On: After discharging, close any open gates (side chute gate closed and latched, center chute cylinder retracted to close trap). If you have more to pour elsewhere, you can drive to the next spot with any remaining mix. If the bucket is nearly empty, it’s a good practice to run the auger in reverse briefly to pull material back from the openings and avoid dribbles while moving. Also, lower the bucket when driving to keep center of gravity low – but not so low that the hose drags (if the hose is still on, you can remove it or coil it up if moving a distance). Plan your sequence such that you don’t let concrete sit in the bucket too long unused; if there’s a delay, occasionally spin the auger to keep it fresh.
10. Cleaning Immediately: Once the job (or that batch) is done, you must clean the mixer thoroughly. Side-discharge units have more nooks and crannies (chutes, auger, corners) that need attention. The process: with some concrete still coating the inside, add water into the bucket – a good amount, say 10-20 gallons. Run the auger to let it wash the walls. You might also insert the side chute hose and flush water through, or spray with a hose into the bucket. Eterra’s manual suggests adding pea gravel and water and running the mixer a few minutes to scour – this is a great technique. Make sure to open the side chute and center chute (one at a time) to let the flushing water out through them as well, thus cleaning those passages. For example, put water in, run auger, then open side gate and let the slurry flow out the side – this cleans the side door area. Then close it, add more water if needed, open center gate, flush through hose. Be careful with the hose end during cleaning – concrete water will come out forcefully. Direct these waste washouts to a contained area where it can settle (don’t pollute a stream or drain). You may have to do multiple rinse cycles until water comes relatively clean. Stop the auger, shut gates, then turn off hydraulics. Remove the grate (or open it) and manually wash any remaining residue off the grate and bucket edges. Check behind the auger, any material stuck on bearing ends or corners – chip it out if present. Also disconnect the hose and flush it separately (any concrete left in hose will harden and ruin it). The nice thing: many units have easy clean features like the grate that unbolts or the fact that everything is steel you can aggressively pressure wash. Just do it before it hardens. Finally, once cleaned, cycle the auger briefly to fling out water, and you might spray a little oil on the interior metal to prevent rust. Clean the hydraulic couplers and store the attachment with chutes and hoses in their holders. If you used an electric control, avoid soaking that – wipe it down by hand.

Operating tips: When mixing, try not to run the auger dry for long – if no material is in the bucket, the auger and motor are spinning freely which is fine, but it’s mixing best when there’s resistance (some attachments might caution about running empty at full throttle). If a jam occurs (auger stops), immediately reverse or relieve pressure – don’t try to force it which could blow a hose or motor. Jams might happen if a large rock or chunk of hardened material got in; you’d then need to clear it manually after relieving pressure. Also, be mindful of the volume – these buckets can produce a lot of concrete; plan your work so you use it efficiently because once mixed, it’s ticking time before it sets. If you need multiple batches for a larger pour, you might have a rhythm: start discharging the first batch, then go back, reload and mix second batch while crew is spreading the first, etc. That continuous mixing ability is a strong suit – for instance, for a long fence, you can keep leapfrogging: mix, pour a few posts, while crew sets them you mix next batch, and so on.

Safety-wise, as you operate (some points reiterating earlier safety): Keep body parts away from the bucket opening, especially when gates are open and auger is on. The auger will forcefully expel concrete – you don’t want a hand or foot there. Do not climb under a raised mixer. Use a spotter if precision placement is needed near sensitive structures. And maintain communication if someone is assisting at the chute or hose.

By following these steps, you can efficiently scoop raw ingredients, mix concrete on-site, and pour it exactly where needed using the side-discharge mixer. This method greatly speeds up jobs like filling many footing holes (compared to mixing bag by bag) and reduces manual labor (no wheelbarrowing required). The key is mastering the gate control and auger speed to get the right flow – once you have that, you can place concrete continuously and uniformly. With practice, an operator can drive slowly along a line of trench and lay a steady ribbon of concrete, or quickly fill a series of forms one after another, making these attachments extremely productive.

Safety Precautions (Operation & Maintenance)

Side-discharge mixer attachments combine the hazards of both a rotating auger and a heavy bucket, plus introduce moving gates and concrete discharge – so a careful approach to safety is crucial. Below are safety precautions specific to these models:

• Loading and Scooping Safety: When using the attachment to scoop materials, treat it like a normal bucket – ensure no one is near the pile you’re scooping from (people can be struck by debris or by the machine if it slides). The bucket will be heavier than a regular bucket when full (due to its structure), so don’t drive aggressively into piles which could cause sudden stops or machine instability. When adding bagged cement through the top grate, shut off the auger while your hands are near the opening. Use the grate’s bag cutter feature to avoid needing to reach far over the hopper. Always keep the grate in place during mixing; it’s a vital guard. Never disable or remove the grate while the auger could turn. If you have to remove it for a large aggregate load, do so only with the hydraulics off and reattach it before mixing.
• Auger and Moving Parts: The internal auger is powerful. Treat it like any high-torque rotating equipment. Never reach into the hopper when the auger is running or could start. If you need to clear something, follow lock-out: shut off engine, relieve pressure, and ideally disconnect hydraulic hoses (since someone in cab could otherwise accidentally activate it). The side chute opening and center chute are points of potential entanglement too – keep hands away during discharge. If you need to adjust the side chute door or attach a chute extension, do it with the auger off. Many side chutes open outward – be cautious of pinch points between the chute door and bucket frame.
• Discharge Safety: When discharging concrete, be aware of the force and volume coming out. The side chute can shoot concrete with some force especially if running fast. Stand clear of the stream – it can knock you off balance or hit with surprising impact. Also beware of whip or movement of the hose on center discharge. As concrete flows, the hose can jerk (especially when starting or if there’s a blockage that suddenly clears). An operator holding the hose should have a firm stance, and ideally, the hose should be restrained or guided, not allowed to flail. Do not point the hose at anyone (it’s like a small cannon of heavy material). If filling wheelbarrows or buckets from the side chute, keep the receiving container stable to avoid tip-overs and don’t overfill (concrete is heavy and can cause a wheelbarrow to flip).
• Machine Stability and Weight: These attachments, when full, push skid steers near their limits. Know your machine’s lifting capacity. Use counterweights on the skid steer if recommended. Travel with the bucket low to the ground (just high enough to avoid obstacles) so if you have to brake, the weight won’t cause a forward tip. Avoid side slopes with a full mixer – the weight can cause a rollover if you get too much lean. Plan routes that are as level as possible. If you must go up or down a ramp or incline, go straight and keep the attachment on the uphill side (i.e., back down slopes if needed) to avoid tipping forward. Also, heavy loads take longer to stop – drive slowly and anticipate turns and stops well ahead.
• Hydraulic & Electrical Safety: As mentioned earlier, always use the case drain if required – not using it can cause a hose to burst or motor housing to crack under pressure. Regularly check that all hose connections are secure; a hose whipping loose under 3000 PSI is extremely dangerous. Wear eye protection – a burst or pinhole leak can spray hydraulic oil or concrete. If you need to connect/disconnect the electrical harness (14-pin, etc.), do so with engine off. Ensure wires are routed safely, not dangling near pinch points or where concrete can pile on and damage them. Before using the attachment each day, inspect the hoses (including the often-forgotten case drain line) for any signs of wear or impending failure.
• Chute Handling: The steel chutes and extensions are heavy (maybe ~20-30 lbs each for 2ft sections). Handle them with gloves to avoid pinches or sharp edges. Secure them properly in their storage brackets when not in use to prevent them shaking loose and falling (especially if driving on rough ground). When attaching or removing a chute or hose, do it with the loader off or parking brake engaged, so there’s no unexpected movement. Be mindful of pinch points when locking chute sections together.
• Communication: If you have a helper controlling the flow (like one person opens the side gate manually while the operator runs the machine), establish clear hand signals or radio com. The operator should know when to start/stop the auger or move, based on the helper’s readiness. Both people need to stay out of each other’s blind spots – e.g., the operator should ensure they can see the helper, and the helper should never assume the operator can see them unless confirmed.
• Cleaning Safety: Cleaning requires working around potentially caustic wet concrete and using water under pressure. Wear waterproof gloves and eye protection because concrete wash (cementitious water) can cause chemical burns on skin and especially eyes. When flushing the bucket, stand to the side of the chute openings – water and concrete slurry will be ejected and can splatter far. If using any acid etchers (in case of hardened concrete removal), follow chemical handling protocols (ventilation, proper PPE). Also, cleaning often involves climbing or reaching on the attachment: prefer to do this on the ground with the attachment lowered and properly supported. If you need to reach in to hose it out, consider removing the attachment from the machine and setting it on stable blocks so it’s waist-high and won’t tip. Never put yourself under the mixer or between the mixer and the loader where you could be crushed if something moves.
• General Awareness: Because these mixers allow continuous mixing and moving, the operator might get focused on the concrete flow and forget surroundings. Always look around before driving the skid steer – ensure no one walked into your path. Sound the horn when moving if in a busy site. The discharge process can be messy – watch out for slippery concrete underfoot around the work area and inside the skid steer steps. Clean spilled concrete off the skid steer’s steps/handles promptly to avoid slip hazards when climbing in/out.
• Maintenance Lock-out: When servicing (chain tension, motor replacement, etc.), absolutely disconnect the attachment from the skid steer or at least relieve pressure, shut off engine, and remove the key. These mixers are hard to work on if still attached because of limited access, so often detaching is best. Support the attachment with proper stands if you’ll be under it (for example, if removing an auger or motor from underneath). The auger is heavy and could shift if, say, both end bearings are removed – secure it before that.

Many of these safety points echo standard heavy equipment safety, but with emphasis due to the concrete and auger aspects. The manufacturer’s manuals typically have a long list of “NEVER do this, ALWAYS do that” – e.g., “NEVER operate unless in good physical and mental health. NEVER operate under influence. ALWAYS ensure the work area is clear of hazards (like overhead wires). ALWAYS lock out hydraulics before maintenance.” – all very applicable here. Heed those warnings.

In summary, treat the side-discharge mixer with respect: it’s effectively a powerful auger inside a big heavy bucket with moving doors – a lot going on. But when used with proper precautions, it’s safe and immensely useful. Most operators find that by following recommended practices (staying clear of the business end, maintaining stability, and keeping the attachment in good condition), these mixers can be run without incidents. It enables what would otherwise be backbreaking or risky manual concrete handling to be done largely by machine, which ultimately improves overall job safety (less fatigue, fewer repetitive injuries). Just don’t become complacent – always assume the concrete could start flowing or auger could start if controls are touched, and keep people and body parts out of the danger zones accordingly.

Maintenance Routines and Troubleshooting Common Issues

Side-discharge mixers, with their multiple components, require regular maintenance to keep them operational. Here’s a breakdown of maintenance tasks and common issues to watch for:

• Daily Cleaning and Lubrication: As stressed, cleaning after each use is critical. Concrete buildup is the number one enemy of these attachments. After every work session, wash out all remnants of concrete from the bucket interior, auger, chutes, and gates. Pay special attention to the corners of the bucket, the auger flight edges, and the chute openings. Dried concrete can jam the gates or reduce the auger’s mixing efficiency. Also clean the hydraulic cylinder rods (for the center gate) and lightly oil them to prevent corrosion. Once clean, grease any points that require daily greasing. Check your manual: some mixers have a grease zerk on each end of the auger (bearing or bushing). Pump fresh grease to purge water out of those after washing. Also grease any hinges (like side chute hinge, grate hinge) so they move freely.
• Auger Drive System Maintenance: If your mixer uses a chain drive, inspect the chain tension and condition regularly (perhaps weekly or every 10-20 hours). Remove the chain cover to check if the chain is slack or dry. Adjust tension according to manual – usually there’s an adjuster to take up slack. Oil the chain with chain lubricant or a grease as specified (some sealed chains might not need much external lube). If the chain appears rusty or has stiff links, consider replacing it. Also ensure sprocket alignment is correct. Check the hydraulic motor mounting bolts and sprocket set screws for tightness. For direct drive systems, check the gearbox oil (if a planetary or right-angle gearbox is used). For example, Danuser’s direct motor likely doesn’t have oil aside from hydraulic fluid, but some mixers might incorporate a small gear reduction that needs gear oil. Many manuals suggest checking gear case oil every 40-50 hours. Look for leaks at the hydraulic motor and around any case drain fitting – any sign of hydraulic oil leakage should be addressed (seal kit or hose replacement) to avoid contamination and performance loss.
• Gate and Chute Mechanisms: The sliding gates (side and center) must be kept clean and lubricated. After washing, dry them and spray a little silicone or light oil on the slides so they don’t rust or seize. If a gate becomes hard to open, do not force it with excessive leverage – instead, look for concrete buildup in the tracks or around the seal. Clean that out. The center chute cylinder should be cycled occasionally and then greased at its pivots. Check that the solenoid that controls it clicks and actuates properly (you’ll usually hear a click when you hit the switch). If the gate doesn’t open when toggled, you might have an electrical issue (blown fuse, bad connection) or hydraulic issue (diverter not switching) – troubleshoot by checking power at the connector and ensure the selector valve (if any) is in correct position.
• Bolt Checks: A lot of heavy vibration and force goes through this attachment. Periodically (e.g., weekly or after initial few uses) check all nuts and bolts: mounting plate bolts, motor mount bolts, bearing block bolts, etc. Loctite or re-torque as needed. The mixing paddles if bolted on (some designs have bolt-on paddles) should be checked for tightness.
• Hydraulic System: Keep the skid steer’s hydraulic filters clean because debris can damage the motor. Inspect the hoses on the attachment each use for any wear spots – the flexing near where hoses enter the bucket is a common place for abrasion. Use hose guards or re-route as needed to prevent rubbing. Ensure the flat-face couplers are clean and lubricated (a bit of silicone spray helps the O-rings). A common issue is a pressure lock in the attachment after use (heat causes fluid expansion making it hard to disconnect). To avoid this, relieve pressure by moving the control with engine off or loosening a coupling slowly with a rag (careful!). For attachments with case drains, make sure to connect/disconnect that line as well – not doing so can result in pressure buildup in the motor case. If you observe hydraulic motor slowdown or inefficiency, it could be aeration (check fluid level), or the motor’s internal wear (if used heavily over time). Typically, these motors are robust, but if one fails, you’ll notice poor performance even with correct flow.
• Wear Parts: Over time, the mixing auger and paddles will wear down, especially if you frequently mix abrasive sand or use it for tasks like mixing asphalt or soil. Hardox steel lasts a long time, but eventually edges can round off, reducing mixing efficiency. Measure the auger diameter or paddle dimensions annually – if significantly thinned, consider rebuilding or replacing the auger assembly. Also, the hopper itself can wear thin in spots (like right where the auger pushes concrete toward the discharge). Some have bolt-on liner plates that can be replaced if worn. Keep an eye out for any pinhole leaks or thin spots developing, and do patching or welding during off-time before it becomes a failure (e.g., a section of wall could be reinforced).
• Common Issues and Solutions:
  • Auger Jammed/Stalled: If the auger stops turning and hydraulic pressure spikes, likely a jam. Causes: oversized aggregate or object wedged between auger and wall, extremely stiff mix (low slump), or mechanical seizure. Solution: Reverse the auger rotation to see if it frees. If not, shut down and investigate inside (after depressurizing). Remove any blockage (big rocks, hardened lumps). If mix is too dry and has “locked” the auger, add water if possible and try slowly to free it. Check that no pieces of metal (like from worn paddles or broken grate) are stuck. If a jam happened and then auger won’t turn at all (even with gates open and after clearing), inspect chain and motor – maybe a key sheared or chain jumped off. Re-align and replace shear pins/keys if present (some augers might have a shear bolt as a protection that shears under excessive load – replace it with the correct grade if so).
  • Concrete Leaking from Side Gate: If you notice during mixing or transport that concrete slurry is oozing out the side door edges, the gate might not be fully sealed. Could be debris on the seal or a slight misalignment. Stop and close the gate tightly (or relatch). In maintenance, check the rubber seals (if used) around the gate; replace if torn. Also check gate alignment – adjust hinges or latch tension if possible so that it closes flush. A little minor leakage might be normal (some have simple metal-on-metal slide gates), but large leaks can create mess and lose mix water.
  • Electrical Solenoid Not Working: If the center chute won’t open or the diverter doesn’t switch, check the fuse in the attachment wiring (if any). Often there’s an inline fuse for the solenoid. Also confirm you plugged into the correct machine connector (some skid steers have multiple auxiliary electrical ports). A multimeter or test light helps: see if you get power when pressing the button. Solenoids can also fail or get stuck – you might hear the click but no movement. In that case, manually override if the unit has a manual override (some have a small set screw or knob to manually open the valve – Eterra’s manual might have mention of a manual override. If still no luck, you may have to dump via side chute as a backup and service the solenoid later.
  • Gates or Chutes Bent/Damaged: Dropping the attachment or hitting something can deform a chute or gate, causing it to stick. If a side chute is bent and scraping the auger, do not run until fixed – bend it back or replace the part. Warped grate or chute can often be straightened with a press or sledge if not too severe. If not repairable, order replacement parts (luckily many are bolted components).
  • Auger Bearing Wear: With time, you might feel increased “play” in the auger shaft (it might clunk when reversing direction). This indicates wear in bushings or bearings at the ends. Replace those bushings/bearings at the first sign of significant play – if they fail completely, the auger could start striking the trough and cause major damage. Regular greasing prolongs their life, but eventually abrasive concrete will take a toll.
  • Slow Discharge or Clogging: If you experience slow output through the chute, consider these: Is the mix too wet (it could be flowing around auger rather than being pushed)? – slightly stiffen mix next batch. Is aggregate too large (over spec)? – use proper size aggregate. Hose clogs can happen if mix isn’t consistent – to clear, reverse auger, which might suck the plug back in, then remix and try again. Also, keep hose as straight as possible (no sharp bends where rocks can settle and clump). A common tip: prior to first use of hose, pump a grout slurry through to “lubricate” the hose interior. If doing multiple loads, keep the hose wet between loads so previous residue doesn’t dry and snag new concrete.
  • Premature Motor Failure: If the hydraulic motor fails (e.g., leaking large amounts of oil, shaft wobble, or not producing torque), check that it wasn’t caused by improper use (like running without case drain). Replacing a motor is a job where you’ll detach the lines, remove bolts, etc. To avoid failure: always use case drain, don’t overspeed with high-flow beyond spec, and keep hydraulic fluid clean. If a motor does go out, flush the hoses of debris before connecting a new motor (a failed motor can shed metal bits into the lines which could harm the new one or the skid steer).

Overall, treat maintenance of a side-discharge mixer as you would a combination of a heavy-duty hydraulic tool and a concrete truck’s hopper. It sees a tough life, but manufacturers build them for it: e.g., many boast about heavy-duty motors, direct drives with no shaft pull-out issues, Hardox paddles, etc., to assure longevity. By doing daily cleaning and periodic thorough maintenance, you prevent the most common failures (almost all of which stem from either concrete buildup or ignored wear).

Also, consult the specific maintenance table in the attachment’s manual – it will list intervals for things like “Grease auger bearings every 4 hours” or “Check chain tension every 8 hours” or similar. Adhere to those. Keep a log if this is a fleet machine to ensure it gets attention on schedule.

A final note on storage: if storing long term, coat the inside with a release agent or oil to prevent rust, and cycle some oil into the hydraulic motor (or at least keep it capped and in a dry place). And never leave concrete in it expecting to chip it out later – that’s a nightmare scenario that could ruin the attachment.

Performance Comparison and Use Cases for Side-Discharge Mixers

Side-discharge mixer buckets are the heavy hitters of skid steer concrete attachments. In terms of performance, they offer the highest capacity, fastest output, and greatest placement precision among the types discussed.

Capacity & Output: These mixers commonly handle between 1/3 to 3/4 of a cubic yard per batch (roughly 9 – 20+ cubic feet). Some models even have optional extensions to reach 1 full cubic yardm. For example, a unit might be. This means you can mix almost an entire small truck’s worth of concrete in just 3-4 batches. The output rate is impressive – because the auger can force material out, you can empty a full load in well under a minute if you open fully. This makes these attachments suitable for larger pours. One might place 6 cubic yards in an hour or two with a side-discharge mixer (assuming continuous batching and some assistance), which would be very slow with smaller mixers but is feasible here. Also, because of the powerful auger, they can mix stiff concrete (low slump) that might be needed for curbing or certain applications, and still push it out effectively. They can usually handle up to 1″ aggregate and even fibrous mixes (like fiber-reinforced concrete) without issue.

Hydraulic power usage: They do demand more from the skid steer’s hydraulics, but most mid-size and up loaders have no trouble. Running at ~15 GPM, these will mix just fine; more flow just speeds up the auger. Some users note that using high-flow doesn’t necessarily speed mixing proportionally because the material still has to tumble – so often standard flow is enough to get a good mix. The high torque motors ensure the auger doesn’t bog down easily – if your skid steer can deliver 3000+ PSI, the auger will churn through a full load reliably. The weight, as discussed, is the bigger constraint – performance is tied to your loader’s lift capacity. A notable performance advantage is that many side-discharge mixers can be operated by one person for both mixing and pouring, though practically, having an extra person to help with hose or finishing improves efficiency.

Comparing to Auger and Drum Mixers: Side-discharge mixers are best suited for larger scale work:

• Compared to auger-style (4 cu ft) mixers, a side-discharge unit can produce five times or more concrete per batch. It’s the difference between mixing 2-3 bags at once versus 12-15 bags at once. So for building a series of fence posts or pouring a small slab, the auger mixer would be painfully slow in multiple tiny batches, whereas the side-discharge could do it in one or two batches. Also, side-discharge allows continuous placement – you can drive and pour simultaneously, which auger mixers can’t (they have to dump batch by batch).
• Compared to drum-style mixers (~6 cu ft), side-discharge still roughly triples the capacity, and more importantly, provides a way to direct the flow via chutes. A drum mixer just dumps out – you then have to shovel or move the concrete around. A side-discharge can place concrete into a trench or form with much less hand work. The clean-up and complexity is higher, but for many jobs the efficiency gains outweigh that.

Use Cases:

• Large Fencing Projects / Multiple Post Holes: For instance, building a long agricultural fence with dozens or hundreds of posts. A side-discharge mixer is fantastic here – you can auger all your holes first (perhaps with a separate auger attachment), then use the mixer bucket to fill them rapidly. By attaching a hose, you could even fill deep holes (like utility pole bases). Danuser markets the Mega Mixer for dispensing feed and etc., but also explicitly for fence posts. The ability to dispense left or right is great – you can go down a line of posts without repositioning awkwardlyCurbing, Sidewalks, and Trenches: Side-discharge mixers are ideal for pouring curb and gutter or long sidewalk sections. You can drive along the forms and control the flow to match your pace. Some crews even attach the mixer to a track loader and follow behind a curb machine to keep feeding it concrete. If doing sidewalks by hand, you can essentially “print” the concrete along the path, needing only minimal raking. The 6-ft chute extensions offered by some allow reaching across forms easily. Also, for trench backfill with concrete or flowable fill, the side chute can steadily fill the trench. For example, filling a utility trench with a sand-cement slurry – the mixer bucket can save hours of wheelbarrow work.
• Foundations and Footings: Need to pour a series of spread footings or a grade beam around a house addition? A mixer bucket can mix and pump the concrete to those locations. The hose option is particularly useful for pier or column footings where you have a form or a deep hole – you can precisely place the concrete. It’s almost like having a miniature concrete pump, but without the complex cleanup of a pump. Of course, for very large foundations one would get a truck, but for moderate ones (say a shed or small building foundation requiring 2-3 yards), a skid steer mixer can do the job when a truck can’t access or if batching on site is preferred.
• Remote or Off-Road Construction: Think of building remote cabins, pole barns, or installing utility poles in hard-to-reach areas. Instead of transporting wet concrete (which might segregate or set), you take the dry ingredients and water and mix on site with the skid steer. Side-discharge’s capacity means fewer trips to haul material. And if the terrain is rough, the sealed bucket holds the mix better than an open drum might.

• Versatility in Materials: These mixer buckets aren’t limited to concrete. They are often used for mixing and spreading other materials: mortar or grout (especially when large volume mortar is needed, like for block laying in a remote location), asphalt patch (some crews mix cold patch asphalt or even hot mix in small quantities to repair potholes, dispensing it through the side chute into potholes), sandbag filling (the center chute with hose can even be used to fill sandbagrd per hour with steady batching. Hydraulic Needs: Standard flow (around 11–20 GPM for optimal 20 RPM; generally no case drain required. Physical Size: Moderate (drum ~3–4 ft diameter, weight ~400–500 lbs empty). Unique Features: Simple rotating drum with internal paddles; often includes parking stand and sometimes remote start option. Placement Method: Tilt to dump – moderately precise if carefully done, but usually requires someone to spread concrete after dumping. It can dump into a wheelbarrow or directly into forms with some finesse. Best Use Cases: Small slabs (sidewalks, patios), driveways repairs, fence or deck footings for a house, minor building foundations – jobs where 1 to 3 yards of concrete are needed in total but divided into smaller sections. Also good for contractors or rental users who need a plug-and-play mixer for various small projects. Advantages: Easy to use, self-contained, faster than hand-mixing or using portable drum mixers because it can be transported and dumped by the skid steer. It’s also easier to clean than a big auger bucket, and typically less expensive to maintain than side-discharge. Limitations: Can’t place concrete as precisely – often need to pour then move material around. Not suitable for very large pours (inefficient beyond a couple yards). Also, it can’t scoop materials on its own (some can a bit, but mostly you load it manually or with another bucket). So, a bit more labor for loading unless you have a helper or an auxiliary loader.
• Side-Discharge Mixer Buckets: Capacity: Large (common sizes 1/3, 1/2, up to 3/4 yard; ~9–21 cu ft). Can often be extended to ~1 yard with accessoriesMixing Speed: Efficient – full load mixed in a few minutes. Capable of delivering a continuous output if batches are done back-to-back. Dispense rate can be very fast (up to nearly 1 yd/min at full throttle). Hydraulic Needs: Medium to high-flow (11–30 GPM range); requires a case drain in many cases and electrical hookup for solenoids. Uses high-torque motor with ~3000+ PSI. Physical Size: Largest – often ~5 ft wide, 2–3 ft deep, weight from ~800 lbs (small models) to 1400+ lbs (larger) empty Very heavy when full (can exceed 2–3 tons). Unique Features: Can scoop its own materials, has internal auger for mixing, multiple discharge options (side chute, hose, front dump). Essentially part mixer, part conveyor. Placement Method: Highly controllable – can direct concrete via side chute to exactly where needed, fill narrow forms or holes with hose, or do a controlled dump. Minimal finishing labor because you can place close to final position. Best Use Cases: Larger scale concrete work and construction projects – e.g., pouring a long run of fence post footings, continuous curb and gutter work, filling many sonotubes or column forms, slab pours where a concrete truck isn’t feasible (remote sites), or anytime you need to deliver concrete over a distance (like into a trench, up and over an obstacle, etc.). Also useful for multi-purpose tasks: beyond concrete, can handle tasks like filling sandbags, delivering gravel to precise spots, feeding livestock or filling trenches with other materials. Advantages: Productivity – mixes and moves a large volume of concrete quickly with one machine. Precision – ability to pour into place saves labor and improves quality (e.g., you can pour consistently without cold joints for a longer distance than small mixers). Reduces manual hauling dramatically. Very versatile on the job site – one attachment can do the work of a mixer, a loader, and sometimes a pump. Limitations: High initial cost and maintenance – more moving parts to service (chain, motor, gates). Requires a sufficiently powerful skid steer (small machines can’t effectively use big buckets). Cleanup is more involved. And because it’s heavy, it can be a bit unwieldy in very tight spaces (though still more maneuverable than a truck). Overkill for small jobs – you wouldn’t want to mix just 2 bags in a 3/4 yard mixer; the material might not even spread enough to mix properly, and you’ll waste time cleaning a big attachment for little output.

Selection Guidelines:

• For light-duty, occasional concrete tasks (a few posts, small repair here and there) or if you specifically need the dual function of drilling holes and mixing, go with an auger-style mixer. It’s cost-effective and leverages an auger drive you may already have. It’s also ideal if you’re a one-person operation and need maximum attachment flexibility.
• For general-purpose concrete mixing needs on a small construction crew or farm, where you often have small to medium pours (from a few bags up to maybe a yard at a time), the drum-style mixer is a great all-around choice. It’s simple, relatively affordable, and fits most skid steers easily. It’s especially user-friendly for less experienced operators (like it’s a common rental item, because it’s hard to misuse – you just dump and mix). If your work includes sidewalks, pads, fence holes for residential projects, etc., a drum mixer will speed that up significantly over hand mixing and doesn’t complicate things with extra hydraulics.
• For high-volume or specialized work – you routinely pour dozens of post holes, or do longer runs of concrete, or you want to minimize manual finishing – the side-discharge mixer is worth the investment. It’s the only type that can handle semi-large pours and continuous feed applications. Many professional contractors (and municipalities) choose these for efficiency in jobs like road curbing or utility pole installations where they might pour many bases in succession. If you have a large skid steer and a steady workload of concrete jobs, the side-discharge unit will pay off by drastically reducing labor and pouring time. Also, consider one if accessibility is a frequent issue – for example, pouring inside existing structures or hard-to-reach backyards: a side-discharge mixer can carry in dry ingredients and place concrete precisely where needed without tearing up the site with wheelbarrows.

Finally, it’s worth noting some users may even utilize two types in conjunction: e.g., use an auger bowl for one-off quick post mixes, and a mixer bucket for bigger pours. But assuming you’re choosing one, base it on the typical project scale and frequency.

In table form for quick reference:

Mixer Type	Batch Capacity	Hydraulic Requirements	Mixing/Output Speed	Notable Features	Ideal For
Auger-Style Bowl	~2–4 cu ft (0.07–0.15 yd³	Std flow (7–25 GPM, ~3000 PSI)	Fast per small batch, but small volume	Uses auger drive; drill & mix combo; very portable	Small jobs, fence posts, remote repairs
Drum-Style Mixer	~6–9 cu ft (0.2–0.33 yd³)	Std flow (8–20 GPM; ~11 GPM for 20 RPM)	Moderate – a few min per 1/4 yd; continuous batches needed for >1 yd	Self-contained drum, simple dump operation; parking stand	Medium jobs: sidewalks, pads, multiple footings
Side-Discharge Bucket	~9–21 cu ft (0.33–0.78 yd³)	Med/High flow (10–30 GPM; case drain & 7/14-pin likely	Rapid – mixes 1/2–3/4 yd in minutes; high discharge rate	Scoops own material; auger mixing; side chute & hose placement	Larger jobs: long runs of posts/curb, small slabs, inaccessible pours

(Citations in table correspond to representative data mentioned earlier for capacity and flow.)

In conclusion, end users/operators should consider the size of their typical pour and desired labor saving: auger mixers save labor for very small pours, drum mixers save a lot of labor for small-to-medium pours, and side-discharge saves enormous labor for medium-to-large pours and specialized placement. Equipment dealers might guide customers by asking, “Are you mixing a few bags at a time or nearly a yard at a time?” and “Do you need to precisely place the concrete or just dump it and spread it?” The answers will direct them to the appropriate attachment. Technical trainers should emphasize to operators how to properly use and maintain each type to maximize its lifespan and performance – as detailed in this guide – and ensure safe, efficient concrete work on the job site.